When my husband and I married I was already a fairly competent, and confidant, cook. My mother married without knowing how to cook at all, and it turned out she didn't much like cooking, so she made sure I knew how. She made sure I enjoyed it, too (I never made anything she didn't praise to the hills). I poached my first egg at six while standing on a kitchen chair in front of the stove. At 13 or 14 I was 'catering' some of my mother's political meetings (she served on a school board recall committee that met regularly in our home).
As far as I remember, when I married I only owned two or three cookbooks of my own- one was a requested gift from my parents when I was about ten or so, and the other was from a Sunday School teacher who was dying, and gave her cookbook collection to her 'girls.' My mother had a couple of others. I was given one as a gift shortly after my marriage, and all through high school I had browsed magazines for recipes fairly often, and I had the beginnings of a recipe box.
I knew how to cook. But I didn't know how to cook to please my husband (not that he was picky, but all of us have our preferences). I learned that through trial, error, and lots of questions. I learned I didn't season the food nearly enough (my dad had hypertension, so we never added salt to our meals at home) when my husband practically devoured a recipe into which I'd accidentally spilled the red pepper. I learned I needed more variety when... well, let me go on with my story.
Every single time I made a meal for my shiny new husband, I would ask him if he liked it, and if everything was okay. He only ever had two criticisms- there was never enough cheese, and we had 'just had this.' I kept stretching my meals further apart, and he kept saying the same thing- there was never enough cheese and 'this is good, but it's too soon after the last time we had it.' Note, please, that he did not *volunteer* this criticism. He only offered it when I asked him to be honest with me and tell me what he really thought, and also note that he was no cook, and really had no idea what was involved in budgeting, shopping, and preparing meals.
I could not fix the 'not enough cheese' complaint, as we could not afford enough cheese to make happy a man who thought it was normal to take a one pound block of cheese and just bite huge chunks off of it for a snack- making it a 1/2 pound block of cheese in two bites. I spread the variations of beans, rice, and potatoes out further and further apart, and still, he would say (when asked), "We just had this..."
Finally one night I asked him to define specifically what, exactly, was 'too often.' Could he eat, say, Soldier's Soup or stir fried vegetables over home-made egg noodles twice in a week? No, that was too frequently. Once each week? No, he thought, that was still too often. Every other week? Hmmm, he pondered, but no, too often.
Define
too often, I foolishly demanded.
He thought it over carefully, rolling his tongue as he imagined the flavors that could be washing over his jaded tastebuds.
"I think," he said, "more than once a month is too often."
Well. Did I mention we were newlyweds? Because, Gentle Readers, I did it.
It wasn't easy on a beans and rice budget. We had legumes boiled, broiled, baked, fried, and mashed. We had them with rice, noodles, or potatoes, in tortillas and on top of bread and broiled beneath the oven flame. We had them simmered with beef bones and simmered with collard greens and we had them fricasseed, creamed, pureed, diced, chopped, mashed, and tossed in salads. I seasoned them with variations of onion, garlic, leftover grease from other cooking, salt, chili peppers, and chives grown in a pot on my windowsill.We had black beans, white beans, red beans, and pinto beans. We had red beans and rice, black beans with rice, and brown beans with rice. We had red and black beans with rice. We had split pea soup and split pea sandwich spread. And all of this was fine with my husband as long as it seemed a little different. In fact, over the years, he grew to appreciate having the same meal more than once in a month, and I, brought up on about a seven day cycle of meals (Sunday potroast, Thursday burritoes; Friday fish sticks...) learned to love variety far more than he did.
It helped when as a perk from one of his two jobs, he brought home dozens and dozens of women's magazines full of recipes. I cut them out and put them in a photo album- even recipes I could not yet afford to make, because I knew we would not always be on a beans and rice budget, and also because I already knew that I loved reading recipes. And I started collecting cookbooks. Twice when we moved I copied down my favorite recipes and got rid of all but four or five cookbooks, but every time this happened, the cookbooks came back. I would find old friends and discover new treasures- until now that I am no longer moving I have over 300 cookbooks, and several folders of recipes.
All cookbooks, you see, are not alike. Furthermore, I do not just use my cookbooks for mere recipes. They are sources of inspiration, history, science, and comfort. I read them for ideas about what to make (I do not often follow a recipe). I read them just for fun. I even read recipes I never intend to make because they interest me- sometimes for the science in them, sometimes the geography, sometimes the history- and sometimes just for the vicarious pleasure of reading about ingredients I cannot afford and preparation methods I am never going to take the time to learn.
Here are five random cookbooks, and one not so random, pulled from the shelf to illustrate just how different cookbooks can be. I've picked three vegetables to look at in each cookbook- asparagus, beets, and parsnips. I chose those three precisely because they might be seen as less commonly used vegetables (especially the parsnips, which I love diced, simmered, then fried in a bit of butter and finished off with by thickening up with some cream):
1. Better Homes and Gardens New Cookbook
, no date found, but probably the sixties. Red and white checked three ring binder, indexed with tabbed dividers, inside cover has information like oven chart translation of older terms such as 'hot oven' or 'slow oven,' as well as thermometer readings for meat, candy temperatures, substitutions, measurement equivalents, can sizes, how many crackers it takes to make a cup of fine crumbs, how much dry macaroni makes 2 1/4 cups cooked macaroni, and so forth.
Color photographs and information for beginning cooks throughout (how to choose vegetables or cuts of meat, how to clean them, etc). There are directions for canning and freezing as well as preparing for ready to serve meals.
There is also a section on table settings formal and informal, with photographs, directions for folding napkins, menus for entertaining, and a page or two on stain removal.
Asparagus: Wash; scrub gently with vegetable brush. If sandy, scrape off the scales. Break stalks- they will snap where tender part starts. Cut up, cook covered in a small amount of boiling salted water 8-10 minutes.
Serving suggestions:
with Hollandaise or Bearnaise Sauce; garnish with hard cooked egg slices. Toss with toasted almonds or croutons. Heat Italian dressing and pour over. Stir fry.
Recipes: a casserole with butter, flour, milk, seasoning, cracker crumbs, hard boiled eggs;
Parsnips: Wash thoroughly; pare or scrape. Slice crosswise or lengthwise, as desired. Cook covered in a small amount of boiling salted water, 15--20 minutes.
Serving suggestions: Add butter or cream to cooked 1 inch cubes, season to taste. Cut in half lengthwise; cook and drain. Brown lightly in butter; season. Sprinkle with a little sugar if desired.
Beets: Cut off all but 1 inch of stems and root. Wash and scrub thoroughly. Do not pare. Cook covered in boiling salted water 35-60 minutes, peel when done.
OR pare and slice or cube,cook covered in small amount of boiling salted water. 15-20 minutes.
Or pare and shred. Cook ten minutes in small amount of boiling salted water.
Serving suggestions: Harvard beets (cornstarch, salt, vinegar, butter, cook until sauce is thickened); Orange glazed beets, (heat with butter, orange marmalade and a tablespoon of orange juice); Beets in cream (sour cream, green onions, sugar, salt, cayenne, vinegar, heat slowly); cranberry beets,(cornstarch, sugar, slat, cranberry juice cocktail, orange peel). Short recipes are included with each of these with more specific measurements and directions. There are several other recipes as well, including beets with pineapple, pickled beets, and a beet salad.
2. Leftovers, by Coralie Castle
- a Cook's Guide with Recipes for Getting the Most Out of Your Money. Paperback, published in 1983
Assumes more knowledge by the reader than Better Homes does. Includes guides to steaming, using the microwave, freezing and dehydrating, as well as a guide to ingredients, a glossary of terms, and an index. Recipes are divided not just by category (salads, spreads, soups, etc) but also by 'top of the stove' or oven dishes.
Illustrated with black and white drawings that are there more for atmosphere and charm than because they give you an idea about the finished product. Sprinkled throughout the book are other tips and suggestions for saving and using leftovers.
Asparagus:
Select asparagus spears that are straight, round, firm, and with closely formed tips that show no sign of flowering. The spears should be evenly green almost to the end, and the cut stem should have a moist appearance. Asparagus should be eaten the same day they are purchased, but if this isn't possible, wrap the stem ends in a dampened terry towel before slipping the spears into a plastic bag for refrigeration....
(more detailed information follows for several paragraphs).
Ideas for asparagus: arrange cooked asparagus spears on a bed of lettuce. Dress with Lemon Mayonnaise thinned with a little sour cream. Garnish with pimiento strips and chopped hard-cooked eggs.
Toss cooked asparagus tips, sliced raw mushrooms rubbed with fresh lemon juice and low-fat cottage cheese into a green salad.
Make a quiche with diagonally sliced cooked asparagus and julienned cooked veal sprinkled with fresh lemon juice, seasonings as desired and grated Gouda cheese. ...
Saute minced shallots in butter until soft. Toss in cooked asparagus tips, freshly grated Parmesan cheese and minced fresh parsley. Use as a filling for omelets. Top with sour cream.
In addition to the index in back, this useful cookbook also has mini indexes within the pages- so in the asparagus section there is a list of 9 other recipes in the book which could use asparagus and the page numbers where they are found.
There is no mention of
parsnips.=(
Beets:
"Do not be attracted to the large beets at the market, for they can be quite woody. Select the smallest beets possible with fresh-looking, evenly colored greens, if they are sold with the tops intact. The beet root itself should be firm and without wrinkles. Store in the refrigerator in a plastic bag up to seven days. It is important never to cut into the flesh of the beet until it is cooked, for the beet will bleed as it is boiled and lose much of its distinctive coloring and flavor."
...
Ideas for beets:
Hollow out tiny cooked beets, fill with any sandwich salad spread and serve as an hors d'oeuvre or as a salad accompaniment.
Dice cooked beets and add to grain soups
Shred cooked beets, combine with shredded onion and apple and heat together gently
Julienne or slice cooked beets and use as a salad garnish
Recipes include one for a mixed vegetable salad, additions to potato salad, and a vegetable salad suggestion
3. More With Less Cookbook
by Doris Janzen Longacre- an indispensable cookbook. I am on my second copy. Mine is a spiral bound paperback, but the newer ones have a nicer binding so they last longer. 328 pages, including two indices- one to recipes and one to the front matter of each chapter (food additives; Canadian Council on Nutrition; Carper, Eva; celebration; quantity buying; Minderals; Packaging, etc). No illustrations. There are some 'useful tables,' some of which are duplicated in the Better Homes and Gardens cookbook, but many are not (complementary proteins, comparative costs of proteins, RDA for energy and protein). There is an introductory section with a very well written (though I disagree with much of it because eating meat in America does not hurt Africans in the Congo, or anybody else anywhere else, for that matter) discussion of issues of world poverty, hunger, nutrition, and diet from a Mennonite Missionary's perspective. Each chapter has a couple of pages of similar material- I am more likely to agree with that. For instance, in the main dishes and casseroles section, we read:
"Contemporary casserole recipes all seem to call for a can of soup. Will future cooks be born, live, and die without knowing how to stir up a smooth white sauce? Will there finally be only three flavors identified at a carry-in-dinner? cream of mushroom, cream of chicken, and cream of celery?
Buy a wire whisk and break the mushroom soup cycle. Save money and cans by returning to the basic five-minute white sauce..."
At the end of each section there is a wonderful page or two called "Gathering the fragments," and it is about ways to use leftovers from that chapter. These do not duplicate the ideas in the Leftovers cookbook, however. More with Less is more down to earth, practical, every day cooking. Leftovers, in spite of its title, relies on ingredients like gruyere cheese, sherry, roquefert or gorgonzola cheese, watercress, sorrel, and so forth. Even when I cannot cook with those ingredients, I enjoy reading about them.
The recipes in More With Less were submitted by Mennonite cooks all over the world, and each recipe includes the name of the submitter and where she lives. Sometimes there are also editorial comments - for a recipe for bacalaitos (which appear to be codfish croquettes) for instance, we read,
"Maria serves these to in-and-out guests on Christmas evening. In Puerto Rico bacalaitos are sold at small food stands along the beach and at baseball games."
I dote on chatty cookbooks. The chattier the better.
Asparagus- there is only one recipe for asparagus, it's for a fresh asparagus soup which looks delicious, uses simple ingredients, and would appear to be done in 20 minutes or less.
parsnips, sadly, do not get a mention at all.
Beets: two recipes. One for sweet-sour beets and one for a beet-apple salad:
Serves 6
Mix together:
2 c. cooked beets, sliced
2 c. raw apple, diced
2 hard boiled eggs, diced.
Add:
1/2 c. cooked salad dressing or mayonnaise
1/4 c. nuts
Toss lightly. Serve on lettuce and garnish with chopped nuts and parsley
The front of the vegetable section includes some thoughtful suggestions from two missionaries in Zambia, health information (vegetables are best steamed or stir-fried), and this delightful tidbit:
"sometimes I forget other details of the meal because it's so much fun to get right into assembling the stir-fry dish. Then my frantic alarm cries out to the rest of the family to finish setting the table because I can't leave the stove. but it's only the last five minutes that are hectic. The rewards are great."
4. FAST VEGETARIAN FEASTS: DELICIOUS, HEALTHY MEALS YOU CAN MAKE IN 45 MINUTES OR LESS
, 300 pages, an index, no illlustrations to speak of. Table of Contents includes:
Keeping Protein up and fats down
cooking for the heart
useful equipment and related maxims
menus and shopping by the week
recipes for the Sunday cook
Chapters introduced by a list of recipes in that chapter and commentary such as:
"The dishes in this chapter are those which, to me, comprise the stuff of vegetarian cuisine. Grains, legumes, tofu, and vegetables are the basis for my own diet, and in fact are the foods that feed most of the world. It's through learning how to work with them that you will reap the most important benefits of vegetarian cuisine. ... grains have lent themselves to use by almost all of the world's cuisines, adn classic dishes based on them have been prepared in teh same way for centuries..."
Recipes are introduced with biographical notes, or notes on preparation, or other commentary. All recipes include metric conversions.
Asparagi Alla Parmigiana (asparagus with Parmesan)
serves 4
...
"I once went to one of the fanciest restaurants in Florence twice in one day just to eat this dish. I was alone and felt less strange about eating so little when I noticed the man at the next table. He ate first a bowl full of peas, with little specks of ham, then a large plate of cherries. Like me, he knew what he wanted."
2 pounds asparagus, trimmed.
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 to 2 Tablespoons butter
Steam the asparagus just until bright green, about 3 minutes. Refresh under cold water.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Butter a 2 quart baking dish. Layer the asparagus side by side, overlapping in rows with teh tops covering the ends to that the tips are all exposed. Sprinkle each row with parmesan and dot with butter. Bake on teh upper rack of the oven until a light crust begins to form and the mixture is bubbling. Remove from the oven, allow to stand a moment, then serve, as a side dish.
Other asparagus recipes include in an omelette, over poached eggs, and in a timbale. There is no asparagus soup recipe.
There is no mention of parsnips, and when it comes to beets, there is a recipe for beets and beet greens, steamed, one for pressure cooked or baked beets, and a middle eastern beet salad.
But there is this:
"People can be quite emphatic in their antipathy for beets. I didn't much care for them as a child, probably because I only knew canned beets, but somewhere along the line I got over my dislike, and as an adult I've always liked them. I liketheir sweet, earthy taste and crunchy texture and always feel as if I'm eating one of the healthiest vegetables around. I eat them simply steamed, with their greens. They are one of the longer-cooking vegetables, and I suggest that, unless you use a pressure cooker, you quarter them. Scrub the skins and remove them only after the beets are cooked. For pressure cooking, beets should be left whole.
Beets can also be baked. It takes some time, but this is unsupervised. The flavor of baked beets is even more intense.
I prefer beet greens to other greens, like mustard and collards, which are quite tough and metallic tasting. Beet greens are fairly mild and simliar in taste to spinach, though a bit more metallic. They are quite high in iron and vitamins and should not be overlooked...."
This makes it a fun cookbook to read, and a source for useful ideas for meals, even though I probably wouldn't follow the recipes word for word.
5. The Joy of Cooking
, by Irma Rombauer, published in 1975 (my copy). This one should need little explanation, as apparently most people have already heard of it. I hadn't. I lived and cooked without it for decades- only adding it to my collection when a friend expressed shock that I didn't have it (my 12 year old son was probably about two at the time, and my oldest child would have been 15 or 16). To be honest- it's far from my favorite. I really do not see what makes this one so special. It bothers me much that the Rombauer's didn't even test many of the recipes before putting them in their book. Some of the directions are ridiculously time consuming and fiddly, and unnecessarily so. But my daughters love it, and I can see that I probably would have appreciated it more if had been my first cookbook rather than one fifteen years into marriage.
For asparagus there is a recipe for aspic with celery (does anybody eat aspics anymore?), capes, directions for canning them, creamed eggs cockaigne, salads, a ham and asparagus sandwich, two soups, garnished spears, and a timbale. The soup recipes are disappointing. One is more trouble than the More with Less version, and looks like the fresh asparagus flavor would be smothered by other ingredients and a longer cooking time, and the recipe for 'quick' cream of asparagus soup' requires store-bought canned soup!
There are about a dozen recipes for beets, including canning, pickled, casseroled, cjellied consomme, in an anchovy dressing, in borsch, salads, and Harvard beets.
For Parsnips, we have:
To bring out the best flavor of parsnips, store them for several weeks at temperatures just above 32 degrees. Parsnips discolor easily. To avoid this see Salsify, 326.
Preheat oven to 375.
Pare, then cut into halves, discarding cores if woody;
4 medium-sized parsnips: 1 lb
Place them in a buttered ovenproof dish.
Brush with:
2 1/2 tablespoons butter
sprinkle with
1/2 teaspoon salt
Add:
3/4 cup stock or water
Cover the dish and bake until the parsnips are tender about 30 to 45 minutes. Serve with:
Chopped parsley and butter or Lemon Butter (350).
Pressure cook parsnips 7 minutes at 15 pounds.
French parsnips
Prepare as for Carrots Vichy- they give the page number for this recipe, which is essentially 2 cups thinly sliced and scraped carrots or, in this case, parsnips, 1/2 cup boiling water, 2 T. butter, 1 T sugar, 1/4 t. salt; 1 t. lemon juice.
Cover the pan closely. Form a glaze with the butter and sugar by simmering until the water is absorbed. Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley).
6. Lastly, there is this cookbook, which actually prompted my idea to compare cookbooks just for fun. A charming and generous friend added it to my cookbook collection this past weekend. It was a marvel of serindipity, because shortly after picking her up at the airport I lamented, "Oh, I meant to ask you to bring a long your copy of
Food That Really Schmecks
just so I could browse through it a bit." She grinned at me and said, "I brought you a present!" And yes, she brought me my own copy!
Edna Staebler lived and wrote in Mennonite communities in Canada, and she collected recipes and stories to go with them. This isn't just a cookbook. It is folklore, stories, and a conversation.
While flipping through it, I found this entry on asparagus, and I practically hugged my new cookbook:
"You probably know more about preparing asparagus than I do. I boil mine in salted water and I like it so well simply with butter melted over it that I never try anything fancy except a cream or mild cheese sauce. But i do want to tell you; never throw away the water your asparagus was cooked in. Keep it in your fridge to use in soups or with a bouillon cube melted in it and served hot in a mug or mix it with tomato juice or V8 for a cold or hot drink. It's full of vitamins and flavour."
She had me at "You probably know more about preparing asparagus than I do." Isn't that charming?
Here's the
parsnip entry:
"This sweet-tasting, inexpensive vegetable is delicious with sausage or pork. Bevvy says she peels hers, cuts it in slices adn cooks it wtih a ham bone or in ham broth.
Soemtimes she'll boil it in salted water adn serve it with a cream sauce and buttered crumbs.
I like mine browned in the oven. I cut the parsnips into long slivers, boil them till they're almost tender; then I melt beef dripping or butter in a pan, stir the parsnips around in it and put them into the oven till they're nicely browned, turning them occasionally. They come out slightly chewy and people who have never liked parsnips ask me how it was done."
Beets- there are six recipes, and this chatty paragraph:
If you are lucky enough to have little beets fresh from a garden, boil them quickly till they are tender, skin them and drop them into hot melted butter, sprinkle them with salt and pepper and be happy.
To prepare beets, cut off the leaves (cook them like spinach if they are fresh) leaving a 1 inch stem and the tail root to preserve the color. Young beets will cook in ``1 hour, old, larger beets from 3 to 4 hours unless you use a pressure cooker. When beets are tender, drain off the water, blanch them cold water but don't let them stand it, slip the skins from the beets before they are cold. Old beets are best when finely chopped, sprinkled with sugar, salt, pepper and plenty of butter."
So you see, each of these cookbooks are unique, special, and not remotely interchangable. I think this is as true for all my 300 cookbooks as it is for different works of fiction in the same genre. They will have similarities, but the details vary, and the details matter.
Now you'll have to excuse me, because now I am hungry.
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